This article is an adaptation of MarkMCRS's article on RSLC, here:
http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/sho … erformance

This is an attempt to map out a path to power up for twin turbo EJ20TT powered Liberty's and is written due to the many 'how can I make my car faster' type questions.
This topic is concentrating solely on straight line performance.

Stage 1

Starting with a completely stock car - about 120 kw's ATW's
Ending up with about 150kw's ATW's

Step 1; Freeing up intake and exhaust.
1.  Standard air filter - LEAVE IT! Just make sure it is clean.
If dirty replace with another stock air filter - RYCO etc.

2. Cold Air Intake (CAI)
Basically a tube that collects cold air from the front of the car and feeds it into the air box where the Resonant snorkel assembly used to connect to the air box.

Interesting article covering all the above;
autospeed site - http://www.autospeed.com/A_1605/cms/article.html
HIRISK install - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2147
TRIPO on RSLC install - http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/sho … hp?t=47396

Cost $50 (Bunnings plumbing parts, DIYs on RSLC), $100 (HIRISKs DIY) and $300 (brand name kit).

3.  Intake Piping.
Remove the resonators and get a custom intake pipe made up that attaches straight to your stock airbox from the under manifold split pipe.
Cost $100 (custom made SS) to $300 (brand name kit).

4.  Exhaust.
Due to the twin Dumps this will more than likely be done in one hit or in 2 parts with the end result being a 3 inch turbo back system.  Some suggest going no larger than 2.5" dump of the primary and 3"of the secondary due to "overboost", but do your research.
First replace from the first flange to the rear then replace the stock 'Dump pipes'.
Cost here can vary greatly depending on wether you go for new or 2nd hand.
Cost $1500 (New Custom Mild Steel) and $2,500 (New SS Kit).

5.  Turbo Porting
Whilst you've got the dumps off one thing that can be done early (that won't have to be re-done) is Exhaust Changeover Valve (ECV) porting.  The diameter of the ECV port can be increased to flow and additional 50%.  This will greatly aid secondary spoolup.  Whilst you're pulling out the turbos, you might as well get the primary wastegate ported (this may help control previously mentioned overboost) and also get the turbo exhaust ports match ported to the dumps.
Cost for the lot ($200 Billsy) to ($700 aftermarket place)

Step 2; Prevention is Better than cure!
We are now starting to approach the limit of the factory fuel supply system and may run into possible issues on leaning and hence detonation, therefore the fuel supply should be upgraded as insurance against engine damage.

1.  A move to a parrallel fuel rail feed with rising rate regulator is the go.  This step ensures the supply to cylinder 4 and avoids leaning out and detonation.
Cost $20 (Bazza @ RSLC semi parallel spec) to $200 (DIY EFI Hoses and aftermarket regulator ebay spec) to $400 (Aftermarket brandname kit and brand name regulator).
RSLC parallel setups - http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/sho … hp?t=58947
DJB parallel setup - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthr … #post94251
KOSTI's kit thread - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4664

2.  It is a worthwhile precaution when increasing the boost to fit an aftermarket fuel pump at the same time.  This will avoid the possibility or all cylinders leaning out at increased supply rates.
Wahlbro and Bosch are the 2 favourites. 400-500hp rated pump is the go.
Cost $180 (parts and DIY, Kosti's is a good one for the B4) to $400 (Pro Install and tank banging)
KOSTI's Wahlbro install - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4625


Step 3; MORE BOOST!
1.  Boost Controller
The proper way to do this is with some form of electronic control (ala OpenECU and a tuning cable or and interceptor chip).
You achieve not only more boost, but also a better ignition and fuel map.
Or
Bleed valve.  You only need one of these attached to the primary as the GenII doen't use the secondary wastegate and the GenIII doesn't have a secondary wastegate.
For Reasoning on 1 BC see here :http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7575
Cost $130 (OpenECU cable but you need to do some research), $100 (bleed valve), $200 (aftermarket Electronic Boost Controller)


2.  Intercooling
By now you are pushing the limits of the stock TMIC and an aftermarket cooler is the go.  Some will suggest a FMIC at it avoids heat soak whilst stuck in traffic, lthers say TMIC as it has better throttle response, but that's up to you as the cost is pretty similar.
Either way for a FMIC the metal you use, the thickness of the core and the statistics on pressure drop across a FMIC are of little consequence at the power levels we are dealing with, so I believe it is best to apply the 'KISS' principle......  Also remember that for it to be legal the BOV must be plumbed back.
Cost $200 (600x300x76mm core) + $400 to $1000 (custom piping) or $2,000 (After market kit FMIC) or $1100 (TMIC kit)
HIRISK - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4601

2.1  Pod for Room (not performance)
At this stage there might not be enough room to route the FMIC piping so you might also need to go Pod filter
Cost $50 (DIY Bunnings + 3A racing) to $300 (Brand Name Kit)
DJB proposed intsall - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6521
HIRISK Apexi install - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1877
blak_b4 pod install - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthr … amp;page=4

To make the Pod legal, you will need to box it:
HIRISK Pod Box - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2385

3.  Engine Tune
Ok, you've got about 170kw's ATW's.
To move to the next step properly you will need a re-tune, this will make full usage of all the previous mods and also reduce the VOD.  This can mean either an aftermarket ECU running things or Stock ECU re-flash (OpenECU or ECUTEK).

So which ECU to get......
When selecting an ECU cost is not the only major considersation.
The saying goes "Your ECU is only as good as the tuner that worked on it"
So you need to find a local performance shop and see what ECU's they like to tune with.

Options include;
Link
Autronic
Haltech
Microtech
MoTeC
and so on.

With the re-tune you should expect to see around 185KWs ATWs whilst still running the 440cc injectors and stock turbos.
Cost $500 (OpenECU retune done professionally) to $2000 (EcuTek reflash [it's proprietary software] or Aftermarket ECU wire-in and tune)

KOSTI's OpenECU thread - http://www.ozliberty.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2475

You should now be pushing close to 185KW, with high driveability, minimised VOD and reduced risk of engine damage (stock ADM B4 tune is pretty bad).

If you spend your $$$ wisely, these mods so far should cost you no more than $6K, some will get closer to $4K if they've got welding skills and are keen DIYers.


Stage 2

Step1;  You're now real seriouse about power!

1.  Bigger Injectors
If you check your injector duty cycle, they'll probably be close to 100% (ie. maxing out) so to get more fuel into the system, you'll have to go larger than 440s.
Your choice here depends on what you are striving for with your car.
440cc's are good for around 180KWs
550cc's will do up to about 200KWs
660cc's will do up to about 230KWs
Now I'm not saying you couldn't get more power than what I have suggested from these injectors, it is more to do with their duty cycle.
Is it better to have a set of 440cc flat out trying to make 190kw's or some 550cc's getting 190 with room to spare?
Of course with the larger injector's you will then need to get a re-tune
Cost $400 (injectors) $300 (dyno time).

2.  With injectors and Aftermarket Tune sorted, your next limitation are the turbos.  It's at this point where there is so many options it's daunting:
- High Flow factory units
- Bigger Turbo's from a later model
- Aftermarket upgrade etc.
- (dare I say it, single conversion)
Cost $1000 (high flow), $1100 - $1500 (turbo upgrade from GenII to B4 or aftermarket), $500-$6000 (single conversion depending on how good you are at scavenging parts and DIY)


One way to look at it is how far can you go with the stock motor.
I believe that about 200kw's ATW's is about the most I'd want to push the stock motor.
Even at this level your motor's lifespan will be greatly reduced compared to it living out its days in stock form.  The risk of engine failure is real and should be taken into consideration.
Cost, How big's your wallet $3K - Sky's the limit!!!