They don't love hard revving launches as I'm pretty sure Subaru designed them to be the weaker link in the drivetrain.
If you dump the clutch in a rwd or fwd you spin the wheels taking the load off the drivetrain. With our cars it's not that easy..somthings gotta give I guess. I got 150,000 outta my clutch ( longer than my headgaskets!)
Hope it's an easy fix for you!

I got a call from the mechanic just before. It's nowhere near as catastrophic as expected. Apparently just a hose on the back of the gearbox or something (braided?). Only going to cost about $150. Looks like I dodged a bullet this time round

You might want to go and check out this rooted clutch for yourself. I don't really see how a failed master cylinder could cause your clutch to suddenly and catastrophically go up in smoke.
Also, you can run the reservoir completely dry and not kill the master cylinder, you just have no clutch pedal.
It is apparently very common for the flexible clutch hose (between the master and slave cylinders) to die on Subarus. I took mine in to a brake place and they instantly knew what it was off because they'd seen so many of them.

I got the car back today... $1978.05 later!!! The throw-out bearing had seized and taken out the clutch and the clutch arm. Now sporting a solid mass flywheel setup which is quite different feeling to the dual mass setup. I think I like it though because it feels much more 'connected' to the engine revs. I didn't even have to ask for the solid setup and I'm guessing the former Subaru mechanic knew about it.

Oh and I also got proof of it all when he showed me the scraps of metal formerly known as bearing and clutch parts. I took pics which I might upload later if I can be arsed

Cardboard Tube Samurai wrote:

I got the car back today... $1978.05 later!!! The throw-out bearing had seized and taken out the clutch and the clutch arm. Now sporting a solid mass flywheel setup which is quite different feeling to the dual mass setup. I think I like it though because it feels much more 'connected' to the engine revs. I didn't even have to ask for the solid setup and I'm guessing the former Subaru mechanic knew about it.

Oh and I also got proof of it all when he showed me the scraps of metal formerly known as bearing and clutch parts. I took pics which I might upload later if I can be arsed

Will, Clutch Fluid shouldn't get hot from slipping the clutch, the master and slave cyl are not actually near the clutch as such.
it's not hard to drain the fluid anyway if you have a spare 15 mins. same deal as brake bleeding, tube onto the bleed nipple, pump clutch and hold, release nipple then just before loose all pressure close and then lift pedal up manually. repeat 10 times and keep topping up the reservoir.

cooked fluid would exhibit a soft pedal that would not dis-engage clutch correctly.
hard pedal could simply be the piston needing a bit of grease or.. the clutch pedal spring needing a bit of grease.

Clutch can be changed at home if you pull the engine.. i think its easier pulling the engine if you are doing it at home..
unless you have access to a car hoist.. then you'd be stupid not to drop the box and do it that way

I got the Excedy clutch kit put in. Feels great to drive now, highly recommended.

Breakdown on the bill was roughly:

$870 for clutch kit
$600-$700 for labour (bear in mind they did the master cylinder and replaced the hose too)