valley of death its the lag between the 2 turbos on the ej20tt

I don't think it would be that easy...

maybe the original bov was faulty or broken, what boost are you running?

and whats the shinny silver cap you used to plug the hole..??
perhaps post some pics up to have a look..

Im pretty sure he's saying that he has fitted an aftermarket Ext-Vent BOV to the car and has plugged up the Plumb-back hose...

not removed the BOV line...

It may have reduced the VOD if the original valve was leaking pressure.

I'm fairly certain this is not going to fix the problem on most cars, i think more likely, your original valve was not functioning correctly, so there is a vast improvement on your car.

Still, its a nice feeling when your car starts running significantly better when you do something that seems so minimal! :victory:

I'm with the above, I very much doubt you've gotten rid of it entirely.
I think you'd find that if you got a dyno graph you'd still be able to see the VOD, even if you don't feel it as much any more.

When I fitted my AVO BOV I noticed a small reduction in VOD, I think it was more the aftermarket BOV held boost more consistently in the transition between turbos giving the feeling the VOD was reduced

XoN wrote:

What has me owning a TT got to do with the price of fish?

Do you own a rotary? If not, going by your logic, why do you continue to post about them?

Why don't you pull the tampon out of your ass and go find something better to do than run around being a keyboard warrior.

C'mon guys, don't fuk this thread up. I'm interested to know what others think on this one, because I think a dyno may show the VOD is still there, but the improvement found by fitting the new BOV may have improved it to the point where its not too noticable to a noob to the TT.

You have just fixed a problem. The car is now running as it should.
From standstill accelleration there should be nothing more than a slight change in engine note and reduction in accelleration at the changeover point.

If there is a big gap then there is something(or many things being an old TT) wrong with the system.

Try going up a hill and dropping into the 3500-4000 rpm zone and see how well it deals with it, that is the true test of how well it is operating.

SOO081 wrote:

My point, Sharlene, is that you have zero tech experience with the TT, yet you continue to post in TT tech specific threads.

Its becoming rather annoying, I do say.

My advice is: post about what you do know, not on hearsay.

Joel wrote:

look mate, just because he hasn't got a TT doesn't mean he knows nothing about them. these are forums where people shouldn't be made to feel scared to post. its people like you that stop people from joining up. if you don't cut it out i'll cut you off.

consider this your first and last warning.

Meow... thread fixed...

I second what Al (JZK25) mentioned, your probably used to the leaky BOV making your VOD bigger than it should be, and now its fixed its much nicer to drive. ive not found one thing that makes it go away but there are a lot of small things that make it better. some of which i did not think would change anything at all, and some that made a very noticeable difference.
i still have a VOD but it is tiny compared to what i started with.

I have had good results in "righting" TT's by adjusting the secondary exhaust valve actuator rod.
Loosen it off until the flap rattles(you can hear the engine note change also) and then tighten it back up about 2 turns. This is a lot less tension than the factory setting but it has no ill effects and the changeover is always improved.

If you want to check things yourself you need to fully understand the operation of the system from a technical viewpoint not just a theoretical viewpoint. Do a heap of googling, reading and looking at your engine bay before you start fiddling.
I haven't had one I couldn't fix so far but at the same time none were simple fixes either and they all had different problems to each other.