jono_v wrote:

Well i got my manual P's license and am now driving manual.
Im still pritty s**t at it but am gettin there slowly.
I hear alot about clutch slipping and double clutching especially in relation to drag racing...could anyone enlighten me as to what exactly these are?
(i dont really have any intentions to do them yet, i just want to know what they are, maybe when i get alot more experience, like heaps more haha)

concentrate on your driving, n00b. last thing we want is people like you concentrating on your feet and not on the road.

ur better off jus stickin with heel toe so ur quick thru the bends

SOO081 wrote:

concentrate on your driving, n00b. last thing we want is people like you concentrating on your feet and not on the road.

Could not have said it any better myself Alex..

jono_v wrote:

Well i got my manual P's license and am now driving manual.
Im still pritty s**t at it but am gettin there slowly.
I hear alot about clutch slipping and double clutching especially in relation to drag racing...could anyone enlighten me as to what exactly these are?
(i dont really have any intentions to do them yet, i just want to know what they are, maybe when i get alot more experience, like heaps more haha)

Clutch slipping will happen if your clutch is stuffed, or if you ride your clutch too much.

Forget about double clutching - you will never have a need to do it in the Lib.

As I posted in a previous thread:
A double clutch (also called a double declutch) is a driving procedure used for vehicles with an unsynchronized manual transmission.

Before the introduction of transmission synchronizers (in the 1920s) and helical cut gears, double clutching was a technique required to prevent damage to an automobile's gear system. Due to the difficulty involved in learning the technique, and because of the advent of synchronized gearing systems, it has largely fallen into disuse. However, drivers of large trucks still use the double clutching technique, as those vehicles are usually equipped with older, more efficient and more durable, unsynchronized gearboxes.

The purpose of the double-clutch technique is to match the rotational speed of the input shaft being driven by the engine to the rotational speed of the gear you wish to select (directly connected to rotating wheels). Once the speeds are matched, the gear will engage smoothly. If the speeds are not matched, the dog teeth on the collar will "crash" or grate as they attempt to fit into the holes on the desired gear. A modern synchromesh gearbox accomplishes this synchronization automatically.

When shifting up on a non-synchroniser equipped vehicle, the clutch pedal is pressed, the throttle is released, and the gearbox is shifted into neutral. The clutch pedal is then released. As the engine idles with no load, the RPMs will decrease until they are at a level suitable for shifting into the next gear. The driver then depresses the clutch again and shifts into the next gear. The whole maneuver can, with practice, take no more than a fraction of a second, and the result is a very smooth gear change.

However, in order to downshift, engine RPMs must be increased while the gearbox is in neutral and the clutch is engaged. This requires the driver to shift into neutral, release the clutch pedal, apply throttle to bring the RPMs up to a suitable speed, depress the clutch pedal again, and finally shift into gear. This operation can be very difficult to master, as it requires the driver to gauge the speed of the vehicle accurately.

A related technique is called Heel-and-Toe, during which the brake and accelerator pedal are pressed by the right foot while the clutch pedal is pressed by the left foot. Note that Heel-and-Toe can be used with any downshift clutch operation, not just with double-clutching. Though difficult, mastering Heel-and-Toe in conjunction with double clutching is essential for high performance driving (e.g., Rally racing) because taking a corner turn as fast as possible is essential to any race. The purpose of the heel-toe-double-clutch is to downshift into the correct gear for exiting the corner while not wasting speed or time during or after the turn, which also places less wear and tear on the entire drivetrain.

There you go, now you know....

alexxx wrote:

+ 1 what a rediculous thread. no offence mate but you just wrote off a car being your fault and now you want to go drag racing?? focus on your BASICS first like observation and the like.

Dude, This is not a ridiculous thread. Jono had a legitimate question. He also never stated that he wanted to go drag racing, he just wanted to know what double clutching was. Also, please tell me what Jono stacking his car has to do with his question.

XoN wrote:

Mate everyone prior to your post was trying to save him from causing an accident, which is quite likely if he can only just change gears normally, which he stated in his previous post. It was entirely for his safety, and nothing else.
Also, clutch slipping IS a gear changing technique, not just what happens when your clutch is worn.

Yeah, fair enough....

dr_harika wrote:

another technique i have picked up..
well i was taught this way since my L's....


when going up a hill or needing to overtake... if im in 4th or 5th, i depress the clutch.. (either nutrual it or just do it with the clutch in if im lazy) match revs, and then put it in 2nd or 3rd, or even 4th, depending on the situation.
i do this daily, and dont even realise..
i got taught this way, and supposingly its better for your clutch, as it does not need to speed up when you downgear.

i dont know what its called.. but i call it matching revs

That's essentially double clutching (providing you release the clutch when you rev match), and is not only better for the clutch, but also the syncros in the gearbox, as they don't have to work as hard (or at all if you are any good at it) to match the gear speeds...